Danau Toba

It is as stunnngly beautiful here as we remember from our last trip and the weather has been fantastic with a combination of sunshine and dramatic storms.  Yesterday we rented three bikes for me, Emma and Luke and a motorcycle for Phil and Susie.  We wanted bikes for all of us but much searching proved that it wasn’t possible to rent a bike small enough for Susie to reach the pedals and the handlebars simultaneously, or a child seat on an adult bike.

 

Concerned about the safety of the motorbike we requested helmets, no problem we were told.  They handed us a helmet just for Phil.  We considered for a while, but the choice was no helmet or no trip so we went ahead.  We had a lovely day exploring the local countryside and villages.  Emm and Luke cycled brilliantly, coping eith uneven roads, honking horns, kids running to try and touch them and everyone shouting hello.  Luke had a few tumbles off the unfamiliar bike, mostly from being to interested in looking at things other than the road ahead, but no serious damage was done.

 

For lunch we found a german run hotel with a fantastic bakery.  Today we have walked back from our hotel in the cool of the early morning to take advantage of the bread, rolls, cakes and buns in the breakfast buffet.  We will catch the boat around the island back to our hotel for more swimming in the lake later.  The kids are practicing their olympic diving from the diving board!

 

Tomorrow we move on again, to Beristagi and hopefully climb a live volcano if we can find a guide.

Batu Ferringhi to Danau Toba

 

We journeyed to Sumatra today and it has to be one of the longest days since we arrived from the UK.

It was a dizzying mix of flights, timezone changes, restricted eating options, long car transfers, boat rides, financial worries and mosquitoes to boot.
We have made it however to Samosir Cottages on the small Samosir Island at the centre of Lake Toba, formed in a huge caldera.
It began simply enough, we had arranged a car to the airport but there was no time for breakfast before check in.  We had a western breakfast at the only place open.  You will be familiar with Ronald McDonald and his happy crew!
It was disconcerting as there was major renovation work going on meaning conversations had to happen round jackhammers.  Still it was simple enough and we waited in departures for our plane.  We didnt know what sort of aircraft we would have for a 1 hour flight.  It was a surprise to discover our 11:00 flight did not arrive from its prior journey until 10:35 and I thought everything was going to be late.  But no frills flying means no food to turn round so just fuel and a quick check over and we were in the air at 11:07.
We arrived in Medan, I spent the entire flight filling in immigration forms, and were waved towards Westerner corner.  Essentially everyone who looks like a backpacker has a $25 visa to purchase.  This was news and since all the children also needed one it cost nearly all of our emergency £100 we had in the local currency.  Next was customs.  I carry a pen knife and scissors in my main backpack so had to declare this and go through the red channel.  On the declaration form the sharp objects tick box is the same one as narcotics, psycotropic agents, firearms, explosives and drugs.  I was expecting fun and games but was waved through without a word.
We were met by Mr Sam a tour operator who had driven the 5 hours to meet us from Parapet and also hustled by just about everyone else in the airport.  This included 3 money changers, 4 carry your bags sir etc.  We xplaines we needed the loo and to get some money and we agreed to put our bags in the car.  Not more than 10m from the car a nice chap I supposed was with Mr Sam helped me put my bag in the car and showed me where the toilet was, even though I knew perfectly well.  He then pointed out the ATM I had spotted and waited by the car.  As it turns out he was another”helper” and wanted 1100 rupiah.  This is about 10 pence but having just given all the smaller notes to Visa man I had nothing but 100,000 notes.  Mr Sam paid him for me and I knew it would be covered by the transfer fee.  It was never going to have been possible to get to our destination on public transport.  It would surely have taken 2 days and the kids were already struggling so tough as it was we made the right decision.

The car journey was frightening, there is no other way of putting it.  We very nearly had 2 serious incidents, one where we undertook a lorry that was turning left and another where we began overtaking on a blind right hand turn on the brow of a hill into a motorcycle.  Quite relieved to have made it.  We stopped for a coffee over looking the lake.  Being locally made and costing 40 pence it was joyous.  
On the way we saw cocoa trees and beans drying in the sun, coffee trees, mango trees and rubber trees.  One big plantation belonged to Bridgestone tyres and we drove through it for 10km with trees as far as the eye could see on both sides.
At 18:00 local time so an hour behind Malaysia we boarded the last boat to Samosir and were last to be dropped off as the sun set over the mountains.  There must have been 50 shades of blue on the horizon it was spectacular.
We had a meal at our hotel where someone had accidentally tipped the salt container over it (or so it tasted) washed down with a couple of litres of water!  Finally we retired at 20:00 and here we are with the kids awake at 07:30 pondering how we will approach the day to tour the island, swim in the lake and work out how long we want to stay.
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The halfway point!

Today we have reached the halfway point of our trip – five weeks gone, and another five to go.  It seems more than five weeks since we left home but I suspect the second half of the trip will feel much shorter.

 

We have been busy since we last updated the blog.  Everyone was well enough to thoroughly enjoy our last day in KL at the Sunway Lagoon water park.  We went down all the water slides, and most of the fair rides as well.  There was some random height measuring going on.  The official height restriction was 1.1m for all the rides, but at some rides Susie stood well over the marker and at others a good 10cm under.  In the end, after some debate, there was only one she was not allowed on.  We arrived as the park opened, and left as it closed.  We all slept well that night.  Phil has taken some footage with the waterproof camera but video is proving difficult to edit and upload so it may not be seen until we are home!

The following day we caught our bus for Penang.  Ramadan caught us out again – the six hour bus was broken only by a toilet stop and not the expected lunch one!  The kids thought all their Christmas’s had come as they ate bisuits and crisps for lunch :-). We made it to our hotel on Bayu Ferenggi by about five pm.  A quick dip in the pool and off to look for tea.  It turns out there is an excellent hawker centre ( well Penang is famous for it’s food) nearby which we have frequented every night.  The sweet rotis with cndensed milk have been a hit, as was Emma’s oxtail soup!

 

While we have been here we have visited Georgetown where we took the opportunity to buy our 20 hour overnight train tickets to Bangkok for later on.  The lovely lady behind the counter informed us all days after ours are already booked solid due to the end of Ramadan but also told us that one or two days a week the train is cancelled on the day!  Fingers crossed it is not ours…..  We enjoyed walking around the city, looked at Fort Cornwallis and the museum as well as taking in the architecture and soaking up the culture.  At lunchtime we stopped in Little India at a small restaurant where we liked the man cooking rotis at the front.  We sat down and when asked for our order mentioned rotis.  “only lunch menu now” we were told.  We looked hopefully for a menu but none was forthcoming so we asked “what’s on the lunch menu?”. “banana leaf set”.  So that’s whar we had, and very tasty it was too!

 

We have also visited Kek Soo Li temple, been up Penang hill and played in the Youth Park. All good fun.  Now we have to pack up again, we are off to our third country – Indonesia – with a flight to Sumatra tomorrow.

 

KL Photos

It has been a little light on photos and I have a load of kids journals to upload but the hotel has one drawback and that is a very slow internet connection.

We move to Penang tomorrow on the bus so maybe at the next hotel it will be better.

For now I have some pictures we took around KL and at our trip to the water park today. See if you can spot the famous landmark.

Orchids we have seen everywhere in the last 4 weeks, absolutely beautiful. The suncream on the lens gave a soft focus look 😉

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Susie on a horse at the wild west rides in Sunway lagoon.
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An awesome fillet steak rare on a sizzling hotplate for £6!
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Luke at KLCC where the shoes police are working overtime!
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The famous landmark
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Steaks, stomach upsets and soft play!

We’ve been enjoying our time in KL. We have explored the various parks and playgrounds and we did a bus tour of the city. We were expecting an open top bus with commentary as per the UK but all the buses bar one were completely enclosed and there wasn’t a commentary! Made it rather less interesting than it might have been….but we used it to go back to the KLCC water play (with swimming costumes this time!) which the kids thoroughly enjoyed. We have been entertained by the apparently full time presence of two police officers whose only role appears to be to whistle at anyone who tries to enter the water area with shoes on! They take it very seriously…..

We have been finding that even somewhere as multicultural as KL Ramadan causes some challenges for us. We walked home through the Kl city walk looking for tea. Loads of restaurants but none of them open. Eventually we gave up and went back to an unhopeful looking one, open but deserted. It turned out to be a brilliant choice. They had boardgames to play while we waited, a waiter in love with Susie and delicious Indian food, all for less than £10. We were sad to leave.

Yesterday Emma had our first stomach upset. I can’t quite believe that we had made it very nearly halfway through our trip without issue, we must have cast iron stomachs. We think Emma’s was probably brough on by her falling over into what appeared to be an open sewer the day before. Although we cleaned her up and antibacterial gelled her, it seems some germ escaped our efforts. Anyway, Emma recovered within a few hours but by that point we’d already made the decision to keep her at the hotel for the day with Phil while I took Luke and Susie to an indoor play centre to keep them occupied and away from any potential germs. Much fun was had!

In the evening we decided to venture to a hawker market slightly out of the centre with great online reviews. It’s called Suzi’s corner which entertained our Susie! Turned out no taxi driver had any idea where it was. The first taxi took us in the right direction through awful rush hour traffic. He was very unhappy about the whole thing and tutted loudly throughout.  He eventually dropped us off without having found it. We walked a mile or so without finding it before getting in another taxi who drove us round in circles for a while before eventually finding it, only about 50 meters from where we had got in! By that point the kids were tired and hungry and Phil and I were pretty stressed. However it turned out to be worth finding as the steaks were the best we have ever had! Very unexpected in such a location. A much simpler taxi ride back to the hotel.

Today we will try again for the waterpark. Everyone seems well, the sun is shining and it’s time to get dressed.

Ideas

I have been waiting for the time when my brain will settle enough to start having some good ideas.
You know you say to yourself “if only life wasn’t so hectic and I just had a moment to myself”?
Well I guess that time has come but I am surprised it has taken 4 weeks. It was really busy before we went away and I think having the children with us means there is less quiet time since we are all in one room most of the time. Don’t get me wrong, I am enjoying that part but I recharge my batteries by being quiet and still so it took until the children had found a really engaging park before we got that peace. Jenni got her nose into a good book and I pondered. The luxury of this has not escaped me and I felt very privileged to just “be”. There is this pressure, perhaps I perceive something that is not there or make it real but pressure nonetheless to do something really constructive with this time.

Life at work is upside down enough to park trying to solve world information security problems by studying how nature does it and making extrapolations, theories etc. but I have had a crack at safe drinking water in hot countries! I guess the science centre about oil exploration was timed perfectly with my mind quietening as we looked at renewable energy. I was looking up how reverse osmosis (ro) for drinking water works as most of the bottled water out here is made that way. It explains that oil rich countries use this because the amount of energy required for ro processing is high and can easily be met by burning oil resources.

It occurred to me that whilst solar energy is unlikely to meet the scale needs of a population in replacing oil a more personal production method could be created for very poor countries with a non-potable water source.

Maybe someone has thought of this already but my idea is to use a solar parabola furnace to condense the dirty water and then to take this condensate and pass it through an ro filter maybe using steam to provide the positive pressure required.

It is not going to generate large quantities and clearly needs a consistent light source but the strength of the sun should not have to be high if the right conductive element is chosen to heat the water.

Anyway where was I? Ah right the blog. Well today we visited the Lake Gardens which has a huge play area. We got on well with the man driving the road train on account of him driving us round twice before asking where we wanted to go and then within 5mins of getting there asking him to take the girls to the loo! Ultimately it was just too hot to really enjoy the gardens, people do say to see it before 10:30 in the morning and we were there English style at 12:00 midday!

We are back in our hotel now really enjoying the aircon and having booked our hotel for Penang on Friday. With that and the bus tickets organised we have completed any pre-planning before we go to Sumatra now so all we have left to do is enjoy ourselves.

We are horribly bitten from the onslaught of mosquitoes yesterday at KL tower forest. We had not predicted the existence or tenacity of the rotten insects and so even though we didn’t stand still through the 59 minute episode of traipsing up and down myriad flights of stairs in the forest the volume meant we could not escape. Emma has been so badly bitten that she is now on anti histamine pills and looks like people have been throwing tomatoes at her legs.

I have downloaded some nice pictures from the camera though so lets see if they come out.

This is where we are now [geolocation]

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Susie loves the shower caps provided in hotel rooms!

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Settling in to KL

We arrived in KL slightly bleary off the night train. We had a real adventure with our five top bunks through the jungle but I don’t think anyone actually slept all that well. A quick stop in KL Sentral station for breakfast and then on to find our hotel. Two interlinking rooms this time, very lovely and very friendly staff.

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We couldn’t check in until 2pm so we went to look at the shopping centre opposite. Turns out it has a theme park on the top levels including a full size roller coaster. Only Phil was tall enough and brave enough to go on the big one, but we still enjoyed the smaller rides and we had the place pretty much to ourselves for a good deal of the afternoon. For tea we hit the hawker stalls and had fabulous beef ball noodles! A broth with beef balls in and a separate bowl of noodles with soy sauce mince on top. Delicious and very filling.

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For thursday we had taken the plunge and booked a tour to the Malaysian elephant sanctuary. It was highly recommended by both locals and travellers but we were very disappointed. Bathing the elephants was cancelled due to high water levels, feeding them was much as you can do at Colchester zoo, and the “ride” was only a 20m circle. Not at all what we had hoped for, and very expensive for what it was. We visited deerland on the way and the kids held an albino python.

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Today we have redressed the balance a bit by playing in a free playground all day. The kids had been in their pants in the water play / paddling pool as we didn’t know they would need costumes. The water provided some much needed cooling from the blistering heat. I’m trying not to moan as i know those at home are still hoping for some summer weather but, my goodness, it has been hot on this trip!

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This evening there has been a thunderstorm so we have been out for dinner at the indian just a few doors from our hotel. As we walked there i thought maybe one korma, one biriyani and one hot one for Phil should do. Once we got there we realised that making plans like that is hopeless! It turnedout to be a canteen type effect with no words of english spoken so we pointed at some random things and hoped they wouldn’t be to spicy for the children. The staff couldn’t have ben more welcoming. It turned out just fine with delicious food and enough that the children could manage, just far too much. Child size portions seem so far to have eluded us completely. Normally we order three adult meals and share but today everyone wanted a chance to choose from the counter so we ended up with five adult meals. No chance of starvation tonight…..

Kota Bharu tour

Our last day in Kota Bharu came round very quickly and we spent it being chaufferred around in a Mercedes/Nissan from the late seventies. Our taxi driver “Mun” took us first to a kite factory, the work going into these amazing flying “moons”, “birds” and “cats” is painstaking and so fragile. We wished that we could buy one but they would not last a week in our backpack.

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Next stop was the shadow puppet maker. On the 30 minute drive we established that the taxi had airconditioning and that it was on but that all the windows were open. That would make it quite tricky to cool the car down but I could not coax the drive or anyone else to shut the windows. Then Susie leans out of hers and her hat blows off so we have another conversation in pigeon English to get Mun to turn round. I wish I could speak some more Malay but even the little I would have learned would leave me wanting trying to explain “my daughters hat blew off while she was leaning out your window.

What really floated our boat was that he took a genuine interest in teaching the children and getting them to have a go at all of it. He was so welcoming. We ended up buying the one in the picture.

The puppet maker was a true joy. In a ramshackle tin hut by the river he first traces a design of a character on paper and then glues this to a piece of cow hide he has de-furred and ironed flat. Then he punches along the lines with a hammer and nail to make the patterns.

Next he paints the character in bright, water-fast dyes and articulates the joints if required.

There is not much more to it than that but I have massively over simplified the task. It takes about 8 days for each piece! Because it is hide the characters last for ages. He showed us one that was 130 years old.

We also saw the batik factory but this was not significantly more amazing than doing it ourselves except that the scale and professionalism was magnified ten fold.

Much love to Mun our taxi driver who then got us to the hotel to pick up our bags and drop us at the train station for the overnight express to KL.

The train ride was fantastic. Bumpy yes, long yes but a great way to see people, countryside and another part of malay life. We are now safe and sound in a lovely hotel.

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Malaysia Kota Bharu to Kuala Lumpur

We are getting into the swing of things now we are back from our all inclusive resort. It is tough in the heat but we are determined to get the best experiences under our belt.

To that end we visited the cultural centre at Kota Bharu today and since we arrived early we sat and had a bottle of water at the adjoining cafe. They have 6 children and so ours played games with them and generally mucked about in the mid thirties heat we were experiencing. We were then entertained at the cultural centre as they put on a drum show, a martial arts demonstration, chong ka lessons, kite making and batik craft displays.

Once complete we felt exhausted but we had decided at the cultural centre that we would leave Kota Bharu for Kuala Lumpur tomorrow evening so off to the train station in a taxi to buy tickets. I have been really looking forward to a good long train journey so 14 hours should take the edge off that desire nicely 🙂

It is generally cheaper in Malaysia to get a teaxi than a bus when you are a party of 5 since we fit comfortably in one car.

Earlier in the day we had some essential purchases to sort at the mall. Blessed air conditioning and of all things a Clarks shoe shop! This was perfect since Susie’s shoes had given up a week ago and she had been in knock off crocs since. The shop assistants had to unwrap the shoe measurer for its first use and a full training session began for the other two assistants who clearly are not used to measuring before purchase.

It is approaching Ramadan now and attention is turning to fasting and the festivities planned for the occasion. We are looking forward to sharing with the primarily Islamic population their special period and it might make picking up food during the day more interesting.

 

 

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