Settling in to KL

We arrived in KL slightly bleary off the night train. We had a real adventure with our five top bunks through the jungle but I don’t think anyone actually slept all that well. A quick stop in KL Sentral station for breakfast and then on to find our hotel. Two interlinking rooms this time, very lovely and very friendly staff.

;

We couldn’t check in until 2pm so we went to look at the shopping centre opposite. Turns out it has a theme park on the top levels including a full size roller coaster. Only Phil was tall enough and brave enough to go on the big one, but we still enjoyed the smaller rides and we had the place pretty much to ourselves for a good deal of the afternoon. For tea we hit the hawker stalls and had fabulous beef ball noodles! A broth with beef balls in and a separate bowl of noodles with soy sauce mince on top. Delicious and very filling.

;

For thursday we had taken the plunge and booked a tour to the Malaysian elephant sanctuary. It was highly recommended by both locals and travellers but we were very disappointed. Bathing the elephants was cancelled due to high water levels, feeding them was much as you can do at Colchester zoo, and the “ride” was only a 20m circle. Not at all what we had hoped for, and very expensive for what it was. We visited deerland on the way and the kids held an albino python.

20120723-212016.jpg

20120723-212022.jpg

20120723-212029.jpg

;

Today we have redressed the balance a bit by playing in a free playground all day. The kids had been in their pants in the water play / paddling pool as we didn’t know they would need costumes. The water provided some much needed cooling from the blistering heat. I’m trying not to moan as i know those at home are still hoping for some summer weather but, my goodness, it has been hot on this trip!

;

This evening there has been a thunderstorm so we have been out for dinner at the indian just a few doors from our hotel. As we walked there i thought maybe one korma, one biriyani and one hot one for Phil should do. Once we got there we realised that making plans like that is hopeless! It turnedout to be a canteen type effect with no words of english spoken so we pointed at some random things and hoped they wouldn’t be to spicy for the children. The staff couldn’t have ben more welcoming. It turned out just fine with delicious food and enough that the children could manage, just far too much. Child size portions seem so far to have eluded us completely. Normally we order three adult meals and share but today everyone wanted a chance to choose from the counter so we ended up with five adult meals. No chance of starvation tonight…..

Kota Bharu tour

Our last day in Kota Bharu came round very quickly and we spent it being chaufferred around in a Mercedes/Nissan from the late seventies. Our taxi driver “Mun” took us first to a kite factory, the work going into these amazing flying “moons”, “birds” and “cats” is painstaking and so fragile. We wished that we could buy one but they would not last a week in our backpack.

20120723-212303.jpg

Next stop was the shadow puppet maker. On the 30 minute drive we established that the taxi had airconditioning and that it was on but that all the windows were open. That would make it quite tricky to cool the car down but I could not coax the drive or anyone else to shut the windows. Then Susie leans out of hers and her hat blows off so we have another conversation in pigeon English to get Mun to turn round. I wish I could speak some more Malay but even the little I would have learned would leave me wanting trying to explain “my daughters hat blew off while she was leaning out your window.

What really floated our boat was that he took a genuine interest in teaching the children and getting them to have a go at all of it. He was so welcoming. We ended up buying the one in the picture.

The puppet maker was a true joy. In a ramshackle tin hut by the river he first traces a design of a character on paper and then glues this to a piece of cow hide he has de-furred and ironed flat. Then he punches along the lines with a hammer and nail to make the patterns.

Next he paints the character in bright, water-fast dyes and articulates the joints if required.

There is not much more to it than that but I have massively over simplified the task. It takes about 8 days for each piece! Because it is hide the characters last for ages. He showed us one that was 130 years old.

We also saw the batik factory but this was not significantly more amazing than doing it ourselves except that the scale and professionalism was magnified ten fold.

Much love to Mun our taxi driver who then got us to the hotel to pick up our bags and drop us at the train station for the overnight express to KL.

The train ride was fantastic. Bumpy yes, long yes but a great way to see people, countryside and another part of malay life. We are now safe and sound in a lovely hotel.

20120718-204811.jpg

20120718-204833.jpg

20120718-204855.jpg

20120718-204902.jpg

20120718-204819.jpg

20120718-204845.jpg

Malaysia Kota Bharu to Kuala Lumpur

We are getting into the swing of things now we are back from our all inclusive resort. It is tough in the heat but we are determined to get the best experiences under our belt.

To that end we visited the cultural centre at Kota Bharu today and since we arrived early we sat and had a bottle of water at the adjoining cafe. They have 6 children and so ours played games with them and generally mucked about in the mid thirties heat we were experiencing. We were then entertained at the cultural centre as they put on a drum show, a martial arts demonstration, chong ka lessons, kite making and batik craft displays.

Once complete we felt exhausted but we had decided at the cultural centre that we would leave Kota Bharu for Kuala Lumpur tomorrow evening so off to the train station in a taxi to buy tickets. I have been really looking forward to a good long train journey so 14 hours should take the edge off that desire nicely 🙂

It is generally cheaper in Malaysia to get a teaxi than a bus when you are a party of 5 since we fit comfortably in one car.

Earlier in the day we had some essential purchases to sort at the mall. Blessed air conditioning and of all things a Clarks shoe shop! This was perfect since Susie’s shoes had given up a week ago and she had been in knock off crocs since. The shop assistants had to unwrap the shoe measurer for its first use and a full training session began for the other two assistants who clearly are not used to measuring before purchase.

It is approaching Ramadan now and attention is turning to fasting and the festivities planned for the occasion. We are looking forward to sharing with the primarily Islamic population their special period and it might make picking up food during the day more interesting.

 

 

20120718-204937.jpg

20120718-204945.jpg

Check this diving video out

I am putting an HD version of this on too but I think I am asking too much of the local internet services to upload 265 mb so it will probably fail.

However let me just say that this dive was my best ever and I will always remember it.

There was so much to see and I have had to remove so many things to keep it succinct.

I had two more dives subsequently and they were great too but not like this one.

;

HQ is 260mb so may take a while to download!

https://vimeo.com/45748079

20120716-102959.jpg

Chilling!

We’ve been far too relaxed here, even updating the blog has seemed to be too much effort!  The setting and weather have been ideal, the kids had been happy playing on the beach and snorkelling and i have finally got stuck into some of the books i brought on my ereader.

 

Phil has had some great diving.  After my refresher course i just did one dive.  Unfortunately it was marred by too many stinging jellyfish to avoid at that particular site on that particular day.  Then i ruined it completely with my error on set up (someone had already turned my air on, so I turned it all the way off and back on half a turn, instead of all the way on and back half a turn) meaning that my air stopped very suddenly.  My buddy and i had to quickly put into practice our training and ascend together using only her air.  Wouldn’t have been much fun at the best of times but through the jellyfish it was pretty horrid.  All in all i’ve decided to leave the diving to Phil for now 🙂

 

Today we have to drag ourselves away from here, several stone heavier and a good deal browner?  We will spend one more night in the same hotel at Kuala Besut and then move onto to Kota Bharu.

Rampaging stroppy tourist!

We had our first minor hiccup today. Susie ran a very high temperature all day slept most of it away.  At about 5pm we decided she was getting worse rather than better so we asked the hotel about options to visit a doctor.  We were told a boat would take us to the island clinic staffed by a nurse.  Susie and i duely set off, passports in hand…..

 

The boat driver was very kind and took us into the clinic.  Whatever he said seemed to work as rather embarrassingly I think we queue jumped horribly.  The nurse took Susies temperature (39.9) and asked me to undress her.  He then shoved two large paracetemol doses up her bum with no warning.  He hadn’t bothered to ask, but we had given her paracetemol not half  an hour before.  The nurse was all set to send us home at this point, but, not being the retiring type I insisted that he look in her ears first as she had been complaining that they hurt.  Oh yes, she did have an ear infection!  He tried to give me ear drops but I went into full on stroppy western tourist mode and insisted on oral antibiotics. I don’t think he’s speaking to me anymore…….

 

We made the boat trip back and the driver was an absolute star, even refusing to take any payment for his service.  Back at the hotel, and one paniced call to our doctor friend (thanks Kate!) to check the paracetemol dose wouldn’t cause a problem and panic over.  Susie has felt well enough to watch a film and eat two biscuits – a significant improvement on the rest of the day,  we are hoping that the antibiotics will continue to do their job.  If this is the worst of our medical problems whilst away we shall have got off very lightly!

Island paradise!

 

We had a nervy start, arriving in Kuala Besut by taxi and being taken straight to an agent and not he hotel we had asked for.  After too much debate we finally got to the hotel to find it was closed for refurbishment!  We had a fairly stressed half hour looking for an alternative whilst being shouted at and followed round by touts on mopeds we finally landed on our feet and found a large, clean family room with air conditioning.
The next difficulty was that everywhere we wanted to stay on the Perhentian Islands seemed to be full for all of July and August!  With office hours finishing we settled for some internet research and a bit of quiet panicing.
In the morning we grabbed an early breakfast, took a deep breath and headed into an agents office to see if hey could help us out.  Luckily, they could!  They tried wuite hard to talk us into a cheapie chalet option, but the photos looked grim and it semed a shame to visit a tropical paradise and stay in a dump!  It took a while to persuade them that we actually wanted to spend more money but they got it in the end and booked us ino BuBu Resort.  At this point it transpired that they only accepted cash and the nearest cash point was 1km away!  Amazingly they trustingly loaned Phil their scooter and sent him off to find the ATM!  Wouldn’t happen in the UK.
The ATM had a very low withdrawl limit so Phil and to make two trips – one to withdraw on the credit card, and another to use the debit card. Finally all paid up at 10.50am.  The boat crossing was at 11am, cue frantic checking out of hotel, sprint to the jetty etc but we made it!
Having arrived we are delighted with our decision.  Lovely room, fabulous service, unbelievable food and the most amazing location!  Phil has booked me for my dive refresher this afternoon (he did his yesterday and is on his first proper dive now).  I’m nervous because its been so long, but if he snorkelling off the beach is this amazing i can’t miss seeing the diving.

Leaving Cherating

We are sitting in the communal area of our guesthouse in Cherating waiting  for the long distance bus which will take us to the jump off point for the Perhentian Islands.  It’s drizzling, although still very hot, so it seems a good time to leave!

 

We’ve had a mixed time here – we have loved seeing the fireflies, just like real life fairies, viting the turtle sanctuary and laughing at the cute baby turtles waiting to be released, and the river boat trip where we saw mangrove snakes, crabs, monitor lizards and a magnificient sea eagle.  We haven’t loved the relentless heat with no air con, the unbelievable amount of bugs that have left us all itching despite buckets of repellant, the rubbish left lying around everywhere or the local youths on moterbikes zipping around everywhere.  We had the unsettling experience of sitting next to a local lady who had her jewellery snatched by one of the youths who then jumped onto the back of a motorbike as it sped past.  We have been more careful with our stuff since then but that hadn’t helped the poor lady who was very upset.

 

Here we have also experienced our first “proper” local breakfast – western options don’t start before 10am and the kids still want to eat at 8am.  The restaurant serving the locals offers fish curry, chicken curry, curried eggs and rice.  It was all tasty, but i do have to argue with my stomach about whether it can handle it at that time in the morning.  Susie is esting a lotmof rice and tomato ketchup at the moment.  Luke and Emma are getting addicted to soups which is surprisingly healthy!

 

We have hopes for airconditioning and hot water tonight :-). Perhaps our age makes us need a bit more luxury!

Firefly watching at Cherating

Just finished breakfast at a self service restaurant packed out with Malay families. Last night we went on the local tour up the river to watch the fireflies. I would love to say we got some amazing pictures but it was simply impossible. Essentially we jump on a boat and potter up the river until the tell tale blinking on a specific species of tree. The tree type is someing to do with the enzymes that they ingest when they eat the sap. It is this enzyme that turns into a chemical that produces the blinking light. They actually have a very short lifespan and the light is used to attract a mate. I order to make the experience more personal they shine a red light around the boat and this is something that the fireflies are drawn out of the tree for. They alll make their way over to the boat and land on your face, hair, clothes etc. so we all looked like Christmas trees. It was enchanting though that they just pop over and float onto you. No bites thankfully but we seem to be in the insect capital and we are drowning in inspect repellent.

We are about to go to visit the turtle sanctuary now and later this afternon we are hoping to take another boat trip to find some monkeys and snakes. Not too sure about the snakes as I know this is a pit viper area.

Next on the list is heading up to the off-point for the Perhentian islands. Need to make some plans on how to get there as it is 6 hours away by bus.

20120709-205747.jpg

20120709-205754.jpg

20120709-211527.jpg

20120709-211944.jpg

20120709-211953.jpg

20120709-212005.jpg

20120709-212022.jpg

20120709-212032.jpg

20120709-212052.jpg

20120709-212101.jpg

20120709-212120.jpg